Inspiration for the restless wanderers.
See inside St. Peter’s Basilica (www.dl.ket.org).
BY JANET MOORE
Welcome to Bernini’s city. I don’t say this as a slight to any of the artists who have lived and worked in this grand village, but this has truly been Bernini’s city for more than 300 years. To many of us, the idea of staying in one place our whole lives is unheard of. We live in a world where young people will have an average of 15 jobs in their lifetime. This was often the case for some of the legendary artists of yore as well, traveling from town to town in search of patrons and steady work. Not so for Bernini, a stand alone in his own time as much as now, he and Rome are permanently joined in history. He gave his life to this city, and finally, I get to walk in his steps.
A TRUE WANDERER
Gian Lorenzo Bernini was born to a sculptor father, and began sculpting before most kids develop fine motor skills. He was taken on by the first of his papal patrons at age 7. He entered into royal patronage, serving under every pope who reigned from 1605 till his death in 1680. His fingerprints are everywhere here, and if it sounds ridiculous come and check it out for yourself.
BAROQUE ART
Baroque art is characterized by its break from the static portraiture of the Renaissance, its portrayal of the most esoteric and ecstatic moments, and its unearthly motion within its paint and stone. Baroque art wants to move: its cloaks are billowing, its hair flowing, its muscles taught and ready. No, it’s not the front of a Harlequin romance, but the theory isn’t that far off. It seeks to involve you, the unwitting viewer in its story. And you don’t have a choice.
ST. PETER’S BASILICA
First stop on the tour is St. Peter’s Basilica. We’d just come from the Vatican, and as I wrote in my journal, we felt beaten. The Vatican Museums are amazing and you shouldn’t miss them, but let’s face it: they’re 11 miles long. If you walk half of them you’ll be wiped! It had also been cloudy that day, so hot and tired we walked through the side entrance to the piazza. As if on cue, the sun shot a ray through the clouds which bounced off the white pillars, illuminating the square. Bernini designed the piazza to accommodate the largest possible number of people while still providing them all a direct line of sight to the Pope’s balcony for his speeches. The pillars are an exercise in symmetry – two lines on each side, curved in semicircles, and lining up perfectly when standing on one of the marked squares in the centre.
Inside the Basilica rests the Baldacchino, a shelter built to cover the papal altar, and commissioned by Barberini pope, Urban VIII. Take a close look among the golden leaves that wrap around the pillars and you’ll see many bees, the symbol of the Barberini family.
At the far end, note the Cathedra of St. Peter. The monument, consisting of four church fathers, was designed and executed by Bernini. The fathers stand poised in study, lost amidst their readings and faith, while they effortlessly hold the great throne off of the ground. There are many more statues here by Bernini, including the ones that top the piazza outside, above the pillars. After a time spent lost in reverie, we leave the Basilica, walk by the water, and cross the Pont Sant’Angelo at sunset. With the pink sky behind us, we gaze at the towering angels that line the bridge. Their completion rests with Bernini’s many students but their design and their life comes from him alone. IT!
Janet Moore is a teacher working in Canada’s capital, Ottawa. She is also the Travel Editor of The Weekly Wanderer, having wandered to over six countries in Asia and in Europe.
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